Mojave Scout

Mojave Voile Grainline Scout TeeI’m terrible at this blogging thing… I actually finished this top nearly a month ago. It took me this long to get around to bugging a friend into taking pictures for me!

Actually, I’ve worn it around friends a bunch of times– but every time I somehow manage to forget. Anyways, here it is. As you may have guessed, it’s a Scout Tee. Please excuse the wrinkles– I actually DID iron it right before leaving the house, but the photos weren’t taken until an hour or two later. And the fabric, for all its virtues, wrinkles like crazy.

I’m not going to say too much about the construction of this top, because it’s exactly the same as my last scout tee. Like the last one, I finished the neckline with store bought bias tape– still no luck in getting it to lay flat! Anyone have any tips? I even under-stitched this time! Oh well, it doesn’t bother me too much.

I really love this fabric, and have had it set aside for a while. It’s cotton voile by Art Gallery Fabrics, the print is called Mojave in Illuminated. I bought mine from Bobbie Lou’s Fabric Factory, it seems there’s still some available. It’s silky-smooth and slightly sheer but not so much that I feel a need to wear something underneath. It’s also lovely and light, perfect for summer. Although, it was a bit of a pain to sew with– The seams kept wrinkling, I fiddled around with stitch length and tension but couldn’t find a great solution. I probably needed a finer needle/thread, but I didn’t have those on hand, and wasn’t willing to wait until I could get them online/go mime at the grumpy old dude at the tiny local sewing shop until he guessed what I was after (I really need to learn some Korean sewing vocabulary!). I ended up following a tip I read online and gently pulling it taught as it went through the machine, that helped a lot– although, I totally forgot to do that when I was zig-zagging the side seams. They ended up super wrinkly, so I had to go back and unpick them… ever tried unpicking  a tight zig-zag stitch? Not fun. Here’s a before and after for that… hard to tell in the pictures, but it was a definite improvement.IMG_2168IMG_2169

Reviewing the me-made clothes hanging in my closet, it seems that blue with a splash of yellow is definitely my thing. I’ve decided to just go with it…. the dress I’ve got in the works right now fits that theme too.

I still don’t like the loose-top-and-pants (or in this case, shorts) look on me. Reviewing these pictures, and those from my last scout, confirms my fear: they make my boobs look huge (and not in the right way), and totally hide the fact that I DO have a somewhat defined waist. So this will probably be my last top for a while– at least until I find the perfect pattern. I’m on the hunt for a fitted top pattern– perhaps something with princess seams– with a high neck and short sleeves, which I can wear tucked into a high waisted skirt for work. But it’s not urgent– I much, much prefer wearing dresses. Now that I have two me-made top options (in fabrics that I LOVE), I am totally satisfied that that box has been ticked.

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Curious about the writing behind me? I believe it says something along the lines of “car garage”. Haha exciting, I know.

La Venta Scout

So! My very first woven top! Grainline Studio’s Scout Tee.
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I’m not a fan of the loose-top-and-pants anything-and-pants look on me. I definitely feel my most confident in fit-and-flare silhouettes. However, I’ll admit that it’s nice to have a few tops to throw on over pants on those days where I can’t be bothered with wrestling on tights (or shaving my legs… ahem.)

Kind of like the April Rhodes Staple dress, I fell for this pattern after seeing so many wonderful versions around the interwebs, didn’t expect it to look great on me, but bought it anyways and reasoned with myself that even if it isn’t my favourite look on MY body, it WOULD be comfortable and practical. Also like my two staple dresses (most recent + favourite one here), this top has been in constant rotation in my wardrobe ever since I finished it about two weeks ago.

I made quite a lot of alterations, in an attempt to enlarge the bust and reduce how far it stuck out at the hem. My first muslin was definitely a tent situation. Not cute.  In fact, it was such a discouraging tent of fugliness that I cast the project aside for almost two months. But I recently decided to take another crack at it– the experience I’ve gained in the last two months put me in a better position to tackle it again. I think it worked out okay in the end, although I probably should have done a slightly bigger full bust enlargement– it’s always feeling like it wants to creep up over my bust.

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So, here are some details:

Pattern: Scout Tee by Grainline Studio. I’ve had it for a while, but was… disinclined… to assemble the pdf. I hate pdfs. Would                    rather pay extra for a printed copy, any day!

Fabric: La Venta  organic voile from the Cloud9 Palos Verdes collection. I bought mine here. I really love this fabric– it’s so                    light and breezy, perfect for a summery top! It was nice and easy to work with, too. The only downside is that it                            wrinkles  really easily, but I suppose that’s typical of voile– I’m resigning myself to the wrinkles under my belly from                    sitting down.

Size: 16

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Alterations:  — Full Bust Adjustment, adding a side bust dart. I foolishly threw out the pattern piece I did this on…. er. I think it                             was 1″ (for a total of 2″ added). I didn’t want to add width to the waist/bottom hem, so I drew a straight line                                 from under the newly added bust dart down to the original hem. I made all the rest of the changes on a traced                             copy of  this altered pattern piece.

–Neckline raised 1″

–center front lengthened 2″, curved to nothing at the sides. The front was too belly-flashy on the original pattern!

— 5/8″ wedge taken out from the flat pattern center front, starting at the bottom hem and tapered to nothing at the                          neckline

— 1″ wedge taken out of the flat pattern from the front side seam, tapered to nothing at the bottom of the bust dart

— Center back lengthened 2″ at the hem, curved to nothing at the side seams.

–Side slits

What’s with the side slits? Well, all these alterations, and I got a bit over-zealous in removing width at the bottom hem. My first muslin just tented out so much, I got carried away trying to remove that! When I finally made it up in this nice fabric, I found that I’d taken too much width out at the bottom, and it was feeling tight on my hips (despite a previous wearable muslin somehow being completely fine?! What is that about!). So, how to deal? Side slits! I’m calling it a design feature… I kind of like the look of them. And I’m happy enough with this version of scout that I really can’t be bothered to make more alterations… so future versions will likely all include these side slits too.

Wear again? Already have. Many times.

Make again? Already did. One and half times. What is that half? You’ll see…

Eh. Enough. Here’s some awkwardness.

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